Where On Earth is Jeff: Erzurum

Here I am in Erzurum in Eastern Turkey.

Erzurum is at the base of Palandoken Kayak Merkezi. And for all those that don't know about, kayaking. It is what is often referred to as an adventure sport that often involves getting wet and cold. You know, when you slap a couple of planks on your feet and launch yourself down a snow covered mountain. What? You thought it had something to do with paddling little boats? As a result of its ski resort status it is a bit of a tourist-ey type place - so you just have try that bit harder to get a decent deal and be a bit more selective at the places you frequent.

I wasn't impressed on the day I arrived as I'd got so used to paying 1 YTL per hour (that's about an aussie dollar) for Internet that for the first time in months I sat down at a PC without first asking the price. When I got up to go I had racked up a bill of 8.50. As with the rest of Turkey, most of the Net cafe's charge 1 YTL but not this one. Most of that time I was trying to work my way around the limitations I've hit with the Google Map - Sorry about the route line not working - Things start dissappearing when you add too many points OR too many maps OR too many lines. I tried breaking the map up in many ways but still ended up hitting what appear to be the limits. I think I'm going to have to simplify things and have only a really rough map - so it wont be possible to trace my actual route.

I camped the first night on the edge of town then on my first full day in town rode around looking for a cheap hotel district. I've now got myself a room whilst I await a few organisational things to do with the rest of my trip - like my Iran Visa and some tyres I'm expecting to arrive into Istanbul then on-shipped here.

Once you know that prices can be quite reasonable - as long as you look around Erzurum is a really nice place. The air is a nice temperature - still hot if you spend a long time in the sun without breeze but its really nice for a change from the constant heat. We've even had cloud cover at times - so no sun - now that's a nice change.

After cooking myself the first night camping I dinned a little more up market last night. Serviets (is that the right spelling), and water served out of sealed bottles instead a jug filled form the tap. The main was 8YTL instead 4 that I'd normally want to pay for it, but I thought what the heck, AUD$8 for a main aint real bad and I was out with a group of 6 Italian Motor cycle Tourers who left this morning to Georgia. In the end they insisted on paying Thanks Guys (and Girls). Something about fully loaded bikes of any description that forms a bond. I'd happened upon them during the day as they unpacked in front of their hotel.

The night before Erzurum I spent about 50km away in a place called Aşkale. The ride to Aşkale was another ripper hill day. This one had not only an almost endless uphill struggle but many many km of dry roadworks with visiblity down to a couple of metres at times (when a couple of Buses or trucks went past - and there were plenty of them)

During the uphill I bonded with the unlikely partner of two guys on a harvester. They were travelling up the hill just a bit faster than myself and we ran into each other a couple of times at water stops. Of course the best bit was getting to the top after them and having the pleasure of flying past them on the incredible down that followed. (They were still doing their 20km and I was doing 50 - I flew past unannounced and nice and close to accentuate the effect.

I'm Also hoping Canon Australia will be able to help with a replacement part for my camera and ship whilst I'm here for a little while. They responded to my inititial enquiry and very kindly sent a parts manual for me to identify the part number of the bits I needed but the problem so far is that the exploded view in the parts manual for this camera doesn't show the part - presumably it is classed as a part of the lens not the camera. One of the many hassles of a trip like this. So... If you are wondering about any great white splodges on any of my photos that's the reason. (although I normally dont publish those ones)

My puncture count increased by 3 the other day. The cheapy tyre I'm running on the back wheel why I await the ones from Istanbul decided it didn't like the paddock I'd stayed in on my first night in Erzican (last major place before Erzurum). I took off the next morning to find myself riding on the rim. later investigations revealed 3 thorns all through the tyre and tube. At least all three were fixed in one session - so incvonvenience wise it was like a simgle puncture - but with 3 extra patches on the tube. I could avoid this by using the tyre I'm carrying as a spare which is one of the good puncture proof XRs - but then I'd either have no spare or have to carry this cheapy that I'd rather not trust my life to. (Its comforting to know that your spare will get you out of trouble.)

I mentioned two nights in Erzincan. I was about to head a few km out of town the first evening, but had to hang around town to buy a copy of the "Erzincan.net gazete" the next morning. I got my photo on pages 1 & 9. A page 1 teaser pointing to the article on page 9. I was at a servo having a loo break and a shave when a reported from the paper fronted up to take my photo and write a story on me. I'm not sure if the servo guys called him or how he knew I was there.

I expect to be here ın Erzurum for a couple of weeks getting the tyres Visas etc sorted (and hopefully the camera). Then I have maybe a week worth of travel to the Iran border. All ıs stıll going well. Good to hear from those of you who write or post comments.

Regards
jeff

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Amasya - a former seat of power in the Ottoman empire - note the fortifications

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more of the countryside

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An overnight stay with some roadside fruit vendors meant local cooking and a night out of the tent.

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A couple of days on the route east was along a river valley like this

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There were also a couple of high passes to cross - both were probably larger than Bolu Daği but neither provided the satisfaction of Bolu Daği. Both of these recent ones passed through the mountains as they climbed whereas Bolu Daği was single saddle allowing you to see just how high you were.

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